Un an d'échange à l'Illinois Institute of Technology of Chicago, ou lorsque le petit marseillais se rend au pays de l'oncle Sam et de Burger King... Au fan de pied il est pas fada ce minot?! Peuchère, à aller tchatcher avec les Ricains pendant un an, il va nous revenir complètement chèvre. Enfin, lui au moins il se cague pas!

mercredi 10 juin 2009

Yosemite 1 - Petit Marseillais 0


J'espere que tout le monde a eu le temps de lire le dernier article et de regarder les quelques photos que j'ai mises en ligne. J'espere aussi que je ne vous ai pas trop inquietes avec mon recit d'evanouissement. Je suis vraiment desole si vous en avez encore les fesses qui applaudissent! Si vous ne vous sentez pas d'attaque pour de nouvelles aventures, vous pouvez toujours attendre un peu avant de lire ce nouvel opus sur mon sejour entre le parc national de Yosemite et la High Sierra Nevada. Mais je peux vous dire tout de suite qu'il n'y a ni evanouissement, ni sang, ni quoi que ce soit de violent dans ce recit. Alors ready? C'est parti!

Alors voila. Apres etre remonte du fond du Grand Canyon, j'ai passe une journee a faire le touriste. Je dois dire que la vue depuis la South Rim est indeniablement la plus impressionnante et je comprends tout a fait que certaines personnes ne passent qu'un jour au Grand Canyon. Cependant, afin de bien s'impregner de l'ambiance, de la taille et de la dangerosite du canyon, rien de tel qu'une petite escapade de quelques jours dans l'antre de ce gigantesque oeuvre geologique. Generalement, apres le Grand Canyon les cars de touristes se dirigent vers Las Vegas, LA, San Francisco ou le lac Tahoe (tres belle destination soi dit en passant). Il y a en d'autres qui prennent la direction de Yosemite. Je ne suis pas parti en voyage organise, ce qui fait que le transfert n'a pas ete simple, mais j'ai pris la direction de Yosemite. Une fois encore, la majorite des gens restent a Yosemite Village et se contentent de travailler de l'index pour prendre en photo des cascades et des montagnes dont il ne savent pas le nom, ou alors dont ils pensent savoir le nom. Les plus temeraires montent a Half Dome ou a Glacier Point.

Vous vous doutez surement qu'em debarquant a Yosemite je ne comptait pas me prelasser au soleil pendant 10 jours. Mon but, il me semble que je vous l'avais dit etait de rejoindre Carson Pass en suivant le Pacific Crest Trail. Cela represente une trotte de quelques 250km dans la High Sierra Nevada, c'est a dire sur des sentiers compris entre 8000 et 11000ft.

Comme je suis legerement fele et un peu aventurier sans pour autant etre completement allume, je m'etais renseigner sur les conditions du terrain a cette periode de l'annee. Les personnes que j'avais contactees m'avaient repondu que je risquais de rencontrer beaucoup de neige sur les cretes alors que les torrents de fond de vallees seraient de veritables fleuves difficilement franchissables. Ces ens m'avaient conseilles d'attendre un peu, la meilleur saison pour cette traversee etant juillet. Le probleme c'est que je suis tetu et qu'en plus a partir du 15 juin je suis "illegal immigrant" aux US. C'etais donc decide: j'essaierai. Meme si le terrain et les conditions sont tres differentes, apres une semaine dans le Grand Canyon je commencais a avoir l'entrainement. Mais c'etait sans compter sur la force de persuation de la High Sierra.

Ma premiere etape etait une sorte de boucle dans Yosemite Valley. Une petite vingtaine de miles avec 3500ft de denivele positif pour atteindre Glacier Point puis 3500ft de denivele negatif pour retourner a Yosemite Valley, le tout avec mon sac a dos de pres de 25kg histoire de tester ma condition physique. Apres un depart en douceur a 6h du matin, j'atteignais Camp 4 (camping pour baroudeurs de Yosemite) vers 16h avec une pause de plus d'une heure pour admirer la vue depuis Glacier Point et surtout reperer toute trace de neige sur la route a suivre les prochains jours. Premiere journee plus que positive etant donne le temps realise pour terminer l'etape compte tenu de la difficulte et l'abscence de neige (apparement) dans la vallee a suivre le lendemain. Seule ombre au tableau une forte douleur dans l'epaule droite (fichu bourrelet glenoidien de merd...) et dans le gros orteil gauche. La douleur dans l'epaule est restee tout le temps de mon trip, surement le poids du sac. Mon orteil s'est calme, mais je garde un bel ongle tout noir! Bref, pas de quoi m'arreter.

Le lendemain je suis parti a l'aube, plus de 4000ft de denivele positif en prevision pour la journee. Je me suis perdu une premiere fois. Le chemin courrait sur des plaques de granite immenses. Sans aucun trace de peinture, pas facile de suivre la trace! Heureusement avec une carte, une boussole et un peu d'experience je suis retombe sur mes pieds. J'ai ensuite eu droit a une ou deux traversee de torrent en furie: pas evident et assez impressionnant. Finalement je suis passe au dessus de 8000ft et je me suis retrouve les deux pieds dans la neige.

La couche n'etais pas trop epaisse ce qui me permettait d'avancer. Il me fallait cependnat etre tres prudent etant donne qu'a certain endroit la neige faisait de ponts tres minces qui s'effondraient sous mon poids (pres de 100kg avec le sac!). Plus d'une fois je me suis retrouve avec une jambe completement enfouie. Pas facile de se sortir de la! Et puis le ciel s'est couvert et il a commence a pleuvoir. Pas tres fort, mais le ciel se faisait de plus en plus noir et le tonnerrre de plus en plus fort. Bref, il fallait s'arreter et monter la tente tres vite pour eviter une rincee. Le probleme c'est qu'entre les endroits ou il y avait de la neige et les endroits detrempes parce que la neige venait tout juste de fondre, ce n'est pas facile de trouver un coin pour camper. En plus de ca il me fallait des "arbres a branches" pas loin pour pouvoir prendre ma bouffe etant donne que je n'avais pas de canister (regardez les photos pour en savoir plus).

En fin de compte j'ai trouve un coin, monte la tente en 4 minutes chrono et me suis refugie a l'interieur. Une dizaine de minutes plus tard il a commence a tomber des grelons d'un demi centimetre de diametre avec une intensite de feu. Checkez les photos pour en savoir plus. Pour une premiere journee j'avais ete servi en emotion. Bien que j'eu les pieds trempes ( torrent + neige), j'avais rempli le contrat et termine l'etape programmee.

Du a mon evanouissement, mon premier jour dans le Grand Canyon avait lui aussi ete mouvente. Pas de quoi donc s'inquieter. Mais la High Sierra de Yosemite est alle plus loin que le Grand Canyon. Lorsque j'etais en Arizone j'ai recu un avertissement le premier jour. Mais par la suite le Grand Canyon a ete gentil avec moi et j'ai pu finir ma randonnee sans problemes (autres que ceux lies a ma bouche;-). Lorsque je me suis retrouve en pleine Sierra Nevada, mes mesaventures du premier jour se sont poursuivies durant les jours suivants. Les torrents sont devenus de plus en plus gros et difficiles a traverser, la neige et devenues de plus en plus presente, le chemin a completement disparu sous le manteau blanc et les arbres tombes durant l'hiver, avec l'altitude les orages se sont faits de plus en plus violents, les temperatures sont devenues de plus en plus froides... Dans ces conditions, parcourir 1 mile devenait une epreuve physique et mentale a la fois. Le parcours que j'avais prevu ne me prendrait pas une dizaine de jours mais plutot trois semaines, avec un risque de me perdre plus qu'eleve. N'ayant que deux semaines de nourriture sur moi, tout juste un piolet et une veste de montagne pas tres chaude et desireux de revoir ma famille, mes amis et mes lecteurs :-), j'ai felicite la High Sierra pour sa force de persuasion et j'ai decide de rebrousser chemin. La solution la plus simple aurait ete de retourner a Yosemite par le meme chemin, mais je n'aime pas trop ca, alors j'ai pris la decision de faire une boucle afin de passer par le barrage de Hetch Hetchi, Eagle Peak, El Capitan, the Three Brother et Yosemite Fall. A priori, 3 ou 4 jours de marche, ce qui me laissait un peu de temps pour ensuite crapahuter aux alentours de Yosemite pour quelques jours. Mais une fois de plus les elements ont eu raison de mes plans.

Pour resumer rapidement avant de vous laisser en compagnie de quelques photos, apres avoir vu mon premier ours (j'en ai vu 5 en tout, le premier est impressionnant et puis on s'habitue:-) je me suis retrouver dans une foret qui a brulee il y a quelques annees. De ce fait les arbres sont toujours debouts, mais beaucoup sont morts et donc tres faibles. En plus de ca, le sol est recouvert de "manzanita", un buisson pouvant atteindre 2m de haut et rempli d'epine. Comme si ce n'etait pas assez, le sol est jonche de troncs dont le diametre de certains excede 2m. Pas facile dans ces conditions de suivre un chemin! Apres plus d'une heure a batailler la dedans je suis arrive dans un marais, ce qui fait que j'ai perdu completement la trace. J'ai alors decide de continuer un peu a la boussole histoire de voir si je pouvais retrouver la sente. Mais j'ai fini par me perdre completement. Et puis comme si ma situation n'etait pas assez critique comme ca, il a commence a tonner puis des grelons enormes se sont mis a tomber. Le vent a commencer a souffler de plus en plus fort. Des arbres ont commence a tomber un peu partout, dans un bruit de bois qui casse effarant. Avec tous ces nuages et ces grands arbres il faisait tres sombre. Je n'en menais vraiment pas large. Il etait pres de 16h30, ce qui signifiait qu'il faudrait que je m'arrete prochainement. Hors impossible de rester dans un endroit aussi dangereux pour la nuit... Deux solutions se presentaient a moi: continuer ou renoncer? Et puis la foudre est tombe juste a cote de moi. Un truc de fou. Une lumiere et un bruit comme vous ne pouvez pas pas vous l'imaginer. Meme aujourd'hui je ne trouve pas les mots pour decrire le bruit et la lumiere que cela dont j'ai ete entoure, de meme que la peur qui a suivie. Mon coeur s'est emballe comme il ne l'avait jamais fait. Tout mon corps s'est mis a trembler. En depis de mon gros sac a dos, ma fatigue et du terrain difficile je me suis mis a courir. Je n'avais qu'une seule idee, retrouver le chemin et sortir de cette foret au plus vite. La grele avait rendu la vegetation trempee et les troncs au sol tres glissants. Plus d'une fois j'ai failli me casser la figure. Mais il me fallait absolument rester debout. En tombant je pouvait me casser quelque chose ou pire etre embrocher sur une branche d'un arbre mort gisant au sol (et c'est pas des blagues). Apres plus d'une heure de combat contre la nature j'ai finalement reussi a m'extirper de cette foret maudite pour moi. Completement trempe, les jambes en sang et encore tout tremblant, mais tellement heureux de voir que les nuages s'etaient dissipes.

J'ai ensuite passe la nuit en esperant qu'il ne pleuve pas. Le lendemain je suis retourne a Hetch Hetchi Reservoir ou j'ai rencontre un couple de retraites cailforniens en route pour Yosemite Valley. C'est donc en voiture que je suis retourne a Camp 4.

J'ai passe trois jours a Yosemite Valley. Un jour de repos a panser mes blessures mentales dues a l'experience vecue deux jours auparavant. Mais on dit toujours qu'il ne faut pas rester sur un echec. Le jour suivant je suis donc monte a Half Dome puis pour ma derniere sortie je suis alle faire un tour du cote de Yosemite Fall, puis North Dome, Indian Rock et Mirror Lake. Ces deux randonnee de la journee sont magnifiques. En plus de ca j'ai rencontre a Yosemite des gens super sympas. Une bonne consolation!

Pour conclure sur ce chapitre "randonnee extreme" je crois que je poeux dire que j'etait un peu tard pour le Grand Canyon (deja trop chaud mi mai) et un peu tot pour la High Sierra Nevada (trop de neige et trop d'eau). En depis de ce que j'ai pu vivre, je garde de tres bons souvenirs, de tres belles images, de bons amis... Et l'envie de recommencer!



Voici quelques cliches. Pour plus de photos et plus d'explications, rendez-vous en France dans moins d'une semaine maintenant!

Yosemite

33 commentaires:

JACOBZONE Mathieu a dit…

Salut Ben

Je vois que tu profites à fond de ton voyage et tu as bien raison. J'espère pouvoir en faire autant l'année prochaine.

Je viens de recevoir mon admission à IIT pour l'an prochaine et j'aimerai discuter avec toi sur internet assez rapidement (enfin dès que tu as qlq minutes à m'accorder).

Merci d'avance (envoie moi un mail pour me donner une heure sur internet pour discuter ça serait cool).

Mathieu JACOBZONE

PS : super ton blog (même si j'essaye de pas trop le lire pour découvrir par moi même ;) )

Vinc' a dit…

On dirait que tu aurais bien eu besoin d'un vrai orienteur à tes côtés!
Enfin tu t'en es sorti, c'est l'essentiel.
Bon retour en hexagone.

Le Petit Marseillais a dit…

OK Mathieu, je te fixe dès que possible un rendez-vous sur le net. Mais tu devrais lire aussi le blog, t'apprendrais plein de choses... Et t'auras de toute façon beaucoup de choses à découvrir aussi!

Oui Vinc' bien souvent je me suis dis "pourquoi est-ce que le Coupa n'est pas là?!? Il saurait exactement comment se sortir de ce pétrin lui!" Mais bon, je suis de retour entier, c'est le principal. Mais je dois dire que la course d'orientation les pieds dans la neige, avec un sac de 25kg sur le épaules, menacé par les orages et avec des ours qui rodent un peu partout c'est pas évident du tout!
A bientôt!

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